The Sun was shining in another cloudless sky as we mounted the coach bright and early, for a whistle-stop tour of Mendoza. Emilio who has been our guide on this leg of the tour, introduced us to the history of the city at Plaza de Castillo. The city was founded in 1561 by Pedro de Castillo next to a settlement inhabited by the indigenous Huarpes. The Huarpes were masters of irrigation which, in the desert landscape (more of which later), the Spanish were happy to “learn” from.
On to Plaza Independencia, and a chance to get off the coach and wander about a bit, or for some of us to take photos. This is the main square of the modern city with a central fountain, backed by bronze friezes depicting various stages of the struggle for independence.
Back on the bus and off to Parque General San Martin, a huge public space to the west of the city. The park is generally flat, expansive with wide tree-lined boulevards and open spaces. It is home to the National University de Cuyo as well as a zoo (in the process of closing down), a velodrome, a large amphitheatre and a modern multi-sports arena.
The park is named after Jose de San Martin, a key figure in the wars of independence from the Spanish and local hero. After leading the Army of the North, San Martin moved to Mendoza, raising the Army of the Andes, made up of Argentinian regular soldiers, emancipated slaves and rebels from Chile and Peru.
At one end of park, the flat open spaces give way to some very steep, very tall hills (for those that are interested in such things I thought they were glacial moraines). A road winds up the tallest of these hills (quite exciting in the coach) to the Cerro de la Gloria a monument to San Martin’s crossing of the Andes in 1814. The Army suffered huge losses in the crossing which took more than a month, but was able to surprise and defeat the Spaniads in Chile, moving north to liberate Lima and establish an independent Peru.
The monument designed and built by the sculptor Ferrari, depicted the General on his horse, with Liberty breaking her chains amid the chaos of battle, flanked by a giant Condor, wings spread wide. The viewpoint provides some spectacular views of the Andes and gave us a chance to appreciate the size of the city itself.
Back on the bus and it was finally time to learn more of what the Mendoza region is most famed for today. About thirty minutes drive south of the city and we were in Lujan de Cuyo, just south of the Mendoza Rivera which is the heart of wine country.
Bodega Norton is the home of one of the oldest wineries in Argentina. Established by James Norton, a British railway engineer, and his long-suffering wife Juanita, the estate has uninterrupted views across to the snow-capped Andes and Aconcagua. Wendy, our winery tour guide, explained that the area only receives 200mm of rainfall per year and thus relies on meltwater from the mountains to support growing the vines and making the wine.
We were greeted with a class of sparkling rose Casecha Especial and after that things became a bit fuzzy, but I do remember that the family sold the winery in the 60’s and it is now owned by the Swarovski family of crystals fame.
On into the winery, past the gleaming fermentation tanks, for a glass of King Malbec, a young wine marketed to millennials (who else). It has a funky label and relatively simple taste.
Some of the original ferementation tanks from 1919 are still in use today for storage prior to barrelling and bottling and it was here that we tasted Norton Reserva Malbec. Now we are far from connoisseurs, but we know what we like and we liked this one!
Finally winding through the caves with rows of bottles laid down for ageing, and out into the shop for our final tasting. This time one of their premium, single terroir Malbecs, Lote. An amazing deep colour, this was full-bodied and long in the mouth. Initially this seemed a little bold for my taste, but Claire and I agreed that once you got over the initial slap in the face, it really started to make sense… or it could be that we were just drunk!
Lunch was a mixed empanadas, served with a nice crisp Chardonay, beautifully cooked steak and a selection of Argentinian deserts, served with a nice with lots more of that Reserva Malbec.
Having returned to the hotel for a well-earned siesta, we ventured out again at about 7. In Mendoza, deep gullies run between the pavement and the roads to channel water away on those occasions that it does rain. Generally these are covered over, but are occasionally open, particularly where trees are planted which would make for a nasty surprise if you’re not concentrating.
We found a little bar that was open on Avenue Sarmiento, and ordered “Dos cervezas grandes, poor favor” and were rewarded with two, one litre bottles of Stella Artois and the local brew Andes. We also had the strangest pizza ever, which was made up of a rather grey bread-base with some tomato sauce and grilled cheese, then a few cold toppings of ham, shredded boiled egg, peppers and olives. It met the need though!
Walking home we gained a friend, a really skinny black street dog with a beard. Moments later we had two as a gold-coloured dog joined us! They were definitely following us, sometimes in-front, sometimes padding along behind, stopping patiently with us at every crossing. We even crossed the street at one point to get away from them, but to no avail: the foreigners were clearly cool to hang out with.
Approaching one corner I spotted a fluffy cat being petted by a family. Goldie had spotted him too and sneakily got round the back using a tree for cover. The cat finally saw Goldie, as he made a grab for him and he was off straight towards us with the dog in full pursuit. Just as it looked as if the cat’s number was up and without breaking stride, he made a dive down into one of those gully openings I mentioned earlier. It all happened in a flash. Goldie had no idea where his supper had gone and looked very confused, but not dispirited.
Arriving back at the hotel it was time to say goodbye to our new friends, and mull over an excellent touristy Day over a couple of whiskies.
DrT